Reading and resting in Tasmania
And lots of driving and eating too
In early September, I spent just over a week exploring the beautiful state of Tasmania. Why Tas? Why not? Twice I have attempted, pre and during the pandemic, to make my way over – and with many making their way to Europe combined with opportune timing, I headed in the opposite direction. I flew into Launceston and snaked my way down south to Eaglehawk Neck with pitstops in Hobart, New Norfolk and Crabtree before heading back home.
The objective of the getaway was to explore, but ultimately, I also wanted to rest. To gauge whether my trip was a success, I counted the number of books read, the naps taken, and how often I batted away the feeling of holiday FOMO tugging at the corner of my shirt urging me to see all the things, hike all the trails, and eat at all the places before it was ‘too late’. This is how most of my holidays have been structured throughout my 20s – the kind of break you come home needing another break from. Mid-30s me is saying heck yeah to solo trips, laying low, and bakery picnics on a sun-weathered deck of a cabin in the middle of the woods. And yes, my mother did scoff upon hearing I had flown across the sea to ‘read and watch TV’.
Holiday reading
Four books were ambitiously packed away inside my luggage, a fifth one downloaded onto my phone. I’m delighted to let you know, 2 books came home read, and 2 more half-completed (now completed) – and one being (me), rested.
Here’s what came with me:
Mr Wigg by Inga Simpson: for anyone who dreams of a simpler life, and (or) of an orchard that keeps you busy baking and preserving all through the year. A beautiful story structured around fruits, materials, tasks and memories – Mr Wigg also manages to weave in themes around family, life and reflecting on chances taken and cast aside. A quick yet charming read.
Second Place by Rachel Cusk: my first experience of Rachel Cusk and whilst I was left feeling a little uncomfortable, I can understand why readers keep asking for and recommending her writing.
The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle by Haruki Murakami: my first Murakami was recommended by a friend who studied Japanese literature in college. This book also left me feeling unmoored but engaged and engrossed for all 600+ pages. I’m ready to dive into more of his works of fiction, as well as non-fiction.
How to Write an Autobiographical Novel, Essays by Alexander Chee: I’ve been savouring each essay so I haven’t finished this one. It’s the kind of book that makes you glad for well-written and thoughtful accounts of life experiences.
[Not started] Coventry: Essays by Rachel Cusk – published in 2019, this one has been making the rounds on the #hotgirlsummer reading list so I packed it, but didn’t get around to it (told you it was an ambitious list).
If you’re interested..
Here’s a breakdown of my time in Tas.
Another note: there are a number of restaurants I chose to dine at that only did set menus or degustations. I know this isn’t feasible for everyone, and it definitely isn’t how I eat 99.9% of the year (I was celebrating Virgo season).
Day 1 and 2: Launceston and Sheffield
Many of my Launie recommendations come from Sonya, writer of a favourite newsletter, To All The Recipes I’ve Loved, and a resident since January (thanks Sonya!).
Harvest Markets on Saturdays
Elgaar (for milk)
Kenzo’s Kitchen pop-up bakery
Bread and Butter – for the heartiest sammies I’ve ever wrapped my paws around, and incredible bread and pastries.
Cataract Gorge – I skipped the retro (read: scary) chairlift but went for a good 2-hour wander.
Havilah – a gorgeous little wine bar with really yummy food.
Stockton and Co – a thoughtfully curated homewares and gift shop
Sheffield, Mount Roland – I stayed in this cute little cabin, a great recommendation from a friend who stayed earlier in the year and is only 45 minutes from Cradle Mountain
Cradle Mountain (see notes below)
The missed list aka the Launceston wishlist
Day 3 and 4: Bream Creek and Eaglehawk Neck
Hill Street Grocer – also recommended to me by Sonya, great for picking up supplies if you’re planning to hole up for a couple of days. I bought some rye from Pigeon Whole Bakers here too.
There are a number of HSG’s dotted throughout Tas. I stopped by the one in Longford on my way through to Bream Creek.
Van Bone, Bream Creek – degustation only so booking is recommended, especially since the team at VB just won GT’s Best Destination Dining.
Laura, the restaurant manager, had some brilliant non-alcoholic suggestions throughout the meal. My favourite was the warm rooibos tea served alongside the duck course.
Pirate’s Bay – a couple of nights hidden away in this little shack was conducive to reading and resting, and a great kitchen to make a big pot of ribollita. I’d love to experience it in the summer too as there is a little path that takes you directly onto the beach.
Day 5 and 6: Hobart
Sunbear – a good pitstop for toasted sandwiches and a coffee.
Pigeon Whole Bakers – the morning buns(!), the cookies(!), the bread.
Tom McHugos – I had a hankering for a schnitty that night (do recommend) but the menu is filled with delicious dishes. I’d love to go again to try more goodies.
Dier Mkr – set menu, bookings recommended.
kunanyi, Mount Wellington – freezing! A windy hill drive for a beautiful view of Hobart. There are walking trails before you go all the way up to the peak if that’s your thing.
Salamanca Place Markets, Saturdays
MONA
Sandy Bay – my accommodation was conveniently located, and just a hop and skip away from Hobart CBD. A lot of the time I parked in Battery Point and walked into the city or to Salamanca Place.
The missed list aka the Hobart wishlist
Recommendations from friends that I’m genuinely sad to have missed but alas, I have but one stomach and may have bought too many snacks:
Sonny, Hobart – I’m pretty gutted to have missed a meal at Sonny as everyone who shared their Hobart dining list with me included this magical spot. Next time.
Ogee, Hobart – a new addition from the Sonny team
Jackman and McRoss (bakery)
Hobart, you are spoiled for food ❤️
Day 7: New Norfolk and Derwent Valley
The Agrarian Kitchen - set menu, booking recommended. The non-alcoholic pairing was unreal too! When I had initially planned to visit in 2019, I had signed up for the cooking with fire course – a reason to come back.
Flywheel – for stationery fiends, here is the most magical curation of notebooks, leathergoods and sticker books in all the land.
Day 8: Crabtree
Summer Kitchen Organic Bakery, Ranelagh – I picked up some pies, sandwiches and cake for a little picnic. I loved everything from here, it was such a nice recommendation from my Airbnb host.
Little Crabtree – for all little tiny home and cabin fans, this is a dream come true. Craig (Airbnb host and owner of Little Crabtree) built this himself – every detail has been well thought out and executed. I couldn’t have asked for a better spot to bring this Tas trip to an end.
The missed list aka the wish list
Fat Pig Farm (Huon Valley)
Willie Smith’s Apple Shed (Grove)
Bruny Island day trip
Other spots I didn’t get to visit include Swansea and The Waterloo Inn (closed for winter).
Sound like the adventure for you?
If you’re thinking of making your way to Tas, here are some things I didn’t know that you might want to know:
It wasn’t as cold as everyone kept warning me
If you know, have known and experienced, winter in the south or southeast of Australia, you’ll survive. As a nation of puffer jacket wearers, we are equipped for a bit of cold weather.
Book a car. Be prepared to drive.
I had always intended to go from one end of Tas to the other and was prepared to hire a car, but it wasn’t until I got there that I realised this is almost a non-negotiable. Get comfy with country driving, night driving, and driving in internet blind spots.
A friend recommended I book a car early, so I did.
So. Much. Roadkill. I did not anticipate but probably should’ve.
Cradle Mountain – don’t be a frozen dummy like me (this is the only time it was as cold as everyone had warned me)
Note: I’m not a hiker but I will happily take myself out for a walk in the bush or the woods for a few hours. I have not camped out or done anything remotely extreme so I don’t have the gear.
It was bone-chillingly cold, and the rain and sleet was on and off the whole time I was there.
I attempted a relatively easy walk, the 5.5km boardwalk, starting at Dove Lake, with the intention of making my way back to the visitor centre but wasn’t dressed properly and tapped out halfway (I figured seeing 2 wombats and achingly beautiful landscapes was a win).
Lesson: dress properly, for example, it would’ve been worth having water, wind and sleet-proof pants, and maybe a neck warmer I could pull over my face instead of being pelted by sleet. I had optimistically left sunny Sheffield sans beanie too. Don’t be like me.
I’m pretty comfy tramping around in a pair of waterproof Blundies and these were fine for the track I chose to follow. Because of the rain, a lot of the trail was underwater (like little creeks everywhere). I don’t recommend sneakers or casual trainers.
There is a fleet of shuttle buses that will take you out from the visitor centre and they do loops throughout the day (your entry ticket contributes to this service and it’s an excellent one) – the bus driver will let you know when the last one will operate so you don’t get left in the park. Some of them also tell excellent stories and jokes – I was tempted to stay on board for the lols.
That’s it, pals! I loved Tasmania – I loved exploring all the different cities, towns and terrains. I loved the scenery and landscapes, and the hospitality scene blew me away. How great that this is only a short flight away. I can’t wait to be back.
Please share your Tassie favourites and wishlist below.
Tassie has been only my wish list for so long now, Diem. After reading this I want to go now!!
I missed your newsletter updates Diem! So fab you had a wonderful time in Tassie - you’re giving me lots of ideas for when we’re down there next.